Autumn offer (-10% on a selection) with the code: "AUTOMNE10" until 27/10 - SHIPS IN 24–48H · DELIVERY IN 2 TO 5 DAYS (items in stock)

0

Your Cart is Empty

October 21, 2019 5 min read 0 Comments

Lil Pump, the rapper behind "Gucci Gang," whom you may have seen in our series with Philipp Plein, paid a visit to our friends at GQ US to show off the rest of the hip hop jewelry he didn't lose at a strip club…

Lil Pump's style: bold links and confident colors

The collection shown in the video says a lot about its owner's wardrobe. It follows the logic that structures most American rapper jewelry: few subtle pieces, lots of volume, and an immediate visual impact from three meters away.

The first marker is the link width. A chain that gets noticed on camera is almost always over 10 mm, because below that, the surface area isn't enough for the light to bounce back into the lens.

The second marker is the accumulation of colors. Yellow gold, white gold, and colorful stones coexist without seeking the strict harmony expected in classical jewelry. It’s an aesthetic choice, not a mistake.

Finally, the third is the repetition of the same motif across multiple pieces: the chain, bracelet, and ring often share the same link pattern, which creates the impression of a coherent set even when everything is oversized.

Anatomie d'une grosse maille cubaineMaillonSoudurePavageFermoir

Cuban link or Figaro link: the real technical match

These two link patterns recur constantly in rap, and many people confuse them. Yet they have neither the same construction nor the same behavior when worn. Understanding the difference prevents you from buying a men's gold chain that won't perform the way you expected.

The Cuban link consists of identical oval links, flattened and interlocked at a constant angle. The result: an almost continuous, very flat surface that acts like a rigid ribbon.

It is precisely this continuity that makes it photogenic. When it is iced out, the stones form an uninterrupted sheet instead of a succession of light points.

The Figaro link, on the other hand, alternates one elongated link with two or three short ones. The rhythm created by this alternation is its signature. It is lighter at the same length, more flexible, and glides more easily over the collar of a t-shirt.

The practical consequence: at 12 mm, a Cuban chain is heavy and sits straight on the chest, while a Figaro of the same width remains mobile and folds. One structures the silhouette, the other complements it.

Criteria Cuban link Figaro link
Construction Identical interlocked oval links Alternating long / short
Finish Flat and continuous ribbon Distinct visual rhythm
Hold Rigid, keeps its shape Flexible, follows movement
Setting Ideal, continuous surface Harder on small links
Effect sought Volume and presence Subtle shine and movement

One last point that is often ignored: a Cuban chain scratches less easily because its surface is flat and wide. The Figaro multiplies the edges, so micro-scratches show up sooner.

Deux mailles, deux comportementsCubaineSurface plane continueSertissage facileTombé rigideVolume immédiatFigaroAlternance de maillonsSertissage partielTombé soupleÉclat rythmé

How to get this look without falling into caricature

The trap with this style is believing that you just need to buy big. In reality, it all comes down to three adjustments: width, length, and the number of pieces worn together.

For width, a simple rule works well: start at 8 or 10 mm if you have never worn a big hip hop chain. Jumping straight to 16 mm is often surprising, less because of what others think and more due to the actual weight on your neck after a few hours.

For length, 55 cm rests the chain on the collarbone, 60 cm makes it fall just below the collar, and 70 cm places it in the middle of the chest. The latter is what gives you that look seen in music videos, but it requires a fairly broad chest so it doesn't look like it's floating.

For layering, stick to two chains maximum if you are a beginner, with a gap of at least 8 cm between them. They must be legible separately; otherwise, the whole ensemble becomes a confused pile.

One last tip, purely practical: a wide chain deserves a box clasp with double security. A simple lobster clasp will eventually give way under the swaying of a heavy piece.

Other links found in rap

Cuban and Figaro dominate, but four other constructions recur regularly and deserve to be identified, if only to know what you are buying.

The twisted link, often called rope, is made of strands coiled into a helix. It reflects light in successive glints rather than in a continuous sheet, which gives it a very recognizable sparkle, even without stones. It is also one of the most resistant at equal weight.

The coffee bean link lines up rounded links whose central groove imitates a bean. Its relief catches natural light well, making it effective outdoors where a flat link might seem dull.

The prong link is a variant of the Cuban where each stone is held by individual claws rather than embedded in the metal. The claws let light pass through from underneath, which significantly increases the sparkle, but they can also snag on fabric.

Finally, the tennis link is not really a link: it is a succession of set stone settings connected by joints. It is not worn like a classic chain because it is much finer and much more fragile against twisting.

Above all, remember this: the more moving parts a link has, the more it shines, and the more care it requires. Choose the compromise based on your actual usage, not the catalog photo.

Our top picks

Four pieces from our catalog that embrace this logic of wide links and continuous paving.

12 mm Diamond Prong Link Cuban Chain
PRONG LINK CUBAN CHAIN - 12MM

Prong-set Cuban link, 12 mm: volume without excess.

from 249 €

16 mm White Gold Gucci Link Chain
WHITE GOLD GUCCI LINK CHAIN - 16MM

16 mm of white gold for those who embrace XXL sizing.

from 289 €

White Gold Baguette Gucci Link Bracelet
EMIR BAGUETTE GUCCI LINK BRACELET 14MM WHITE GOLD

The matching baguette-cut bracelet for a coherent look.

from 139 €

14 mm Yellow Gold Broken Heart Chain
YELLOW GOLD BROKEN HEART CHAIN - 14MM

A figurative link as an alternative to the classics.

from 199 €

To go further

To place these pieces within the overall hip-hop wardrobe, read our complete guide to American rapper jewelry.

Want to start with just one statement piece? Browse our Cuban chains and choose the width first; the color will follow.

Frequently asked questions

Which Cuban chain width should I choose to start?

Between 8 and 12 mm. It's visible enough to make a statement and light enough to wear all day without discomfort.

Is the Figaro link less solid than the Cuban?

Not necessarily. It is simply more flexible and therefore more susceptible to twisting. At the same thickness, both hold up well if the links are welded one by one.

Can you mix yellow gold and white gold?

Yes, it is even common in hip-hop aesthetics. To keep the mix legible, keep one dominant piece and only one contrasting piece.

How do I prevent a big chain from tangling?

Hang it vertically rather than leaving it in a pile, and store it alone in its own compartment. Contact with other jewelry is the primary cause of knots and scratches.

Frequent searches: men's cuban chain · cuban link vs figaro · big hip hop chain · american rapper necklace · 12mm gold chain for men · men's bling bling jewelry · iced out cuban link chain · what chain width to choose · lil pump style jewelry · cheap iced out chain · men's chain and bracelet set · 60 cm men's chain length


The Emir ICE journal

Keep reading

All articles

Follow the workshop on Instagram @emirice24k

EMIR ICE

NEWSLETTER SUBSCRIPTION

Subscribe to our newsletter to follow our latest news...

♦ Accès prioritaire aux nouvelles collections • Offres exclusives • Désabonnement à tout moment