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September 25, 2019 5 min read 0 Comments

Jacquees recently starred in GQ's "On The Rocks" series. He showcases some of his pendants, bling bling watches, and more. Jacquees tells us that his first chain was his "gtv" chain gifted by Birdman. He explains how most of his jewelry was stolen in Greece. "This year has been my biggest year," said Jacquees.

Jacquees' style: the pendant comes first

This collection is built around the pendant. The chain plays a supporting role: it carries, it frames, but it doesn't try to steal the spotlight from the suspended piece.

It's a different approach from collections centered on the link style. Here, the design tells a story—an origin, a meeting, a career moment—and the diamond pendant becomes an object of memory as much as a piece of jewelry.

The mix of materials is another marker. Yellow gold and colored stones sit alongside silver, giving the whole a texture that is less uniform than monochromatic sets.

Finally, the story of the stolen pieces reminds us of a less glamorous reality: a collection must be transported, stored, and secured. The choice of attachments is not a decorative detail.

Les pièces d'assemblage d'un collierBélière fixe ou mobileAnneau de jonctionFermoir et son ressortAnneau de sécurité

The bail and the clasp: the two pieces that determine the lifespan of a necklace

A pendant almost never comes off from the middle. It falls because the bail opened or because the clasp gave way. These are the two weak points of any necklace, and they are also the ones least looked at during purchase.

The bail is the loop by which the pendant is suspended. It exists in two families. The fixed bail is soldered to the pendant: it is the strongest, but it imposes a constant viewing angle. The movable bail pivots, allowing the pendant to straighten itself out on its own, at the cost of an additional wear point.

The inner diameter counts as much as the solidity. A bail that is too narrow for the chain forces it, deforms the links, and eventually cuts into the metal of both pieces.

The clasp is chosen based on the weight carried. The lobster claw is suitable for thin chains. The box clasp, with its clicking tongue, supports much heavier pieces and closes with a crisp click. Models with double security add a side latch that prevents accidental opening.

Element Type Suitable for
Bail Fixed soldered Heavy pendants, constant angle
Bail Movable pivoting Flat pendants that need to stay upright
Clasp Lobster claw Chains up to 5-6 mm
Clasp Box with tongue Wide links and voluminous pendants
Clasp Box with double security Pieces worn daily

A useful reflex: once a month, gently pull on the closed clasp. If it opens under light traction, the spring is worn out and must be replaced before it is lost.

Le bon geste pour attacher un pendentif lourd1Ouvrir le fermoir2Enfiler la bélière3Centrer le pendentif4Verrouiller la sécurité

How to get this pendant-centered look

The basic rule is a matter of proportion. A wide pendant requires a chain thick enough not to look crushed: count on at least 4 mm of links for a 3 cm pendant, and 8 mm for anything 5 cm and up.

The length is calculated by including the pendant. If you are aiming for a look that hits the middle of the chest with a 6 cm pendant, a 60 cm chain is enough: the design will hang like a 66 cm chain.

For layering, only one pendant should be visible at a time. If you wear two chains, the second remains bare and serves as a counterpoint. Two competing designs neutralize each other.

As for color, a pendant set with colored stones pairs better with a sober chain. Conversely, an entirely paved chain calls for a more graphic pendant with large surfaces of bare metal.

Last practical point: always store the pendant and chain separately if the design has sharp edges. It is the pendant that scratches the chain, never the other way around.

Diagnosing a break: which link actually gave way

When a necklace falls, the first instinct is to blame the chain. In reality, the break almost always occurs at one of the four assembly points, and the diagnosis determines the repair.

The clasp is open but intact indicates a weak spring or a simple snag on clothing. This is the most minor failure: replacing the clasp is sufficient, the chain remains usable as is.

The jump ring deformed in a spiral betrays an open, unsoldered ring. It pulled apart under the weight. The repair consists of replacing it with a soldered ring sized for the actual mass of the pendant.

The split bail indicates that the metal has worked too long in the same spot. This is the typical case of a movable bail whose axis has never been checked. It can be re-soldered, but the area remains fragile and must be monitored.

A link open in the middle of the chain, finally, reveals a missing solder from manufacturing. On a quality piece, each link is individually closed; if you find one open, check its neighbors—there is rarely just one.

A visual check every two months, with the chain laid flat under good light, allows you to spot a link that is opening before it gives way. Five minutes is enough.

Top picks

Four pieces from our catalog built around the suspended design.

Yellow gold sapphire diamond pendant necklace
YELLOW GOLD SAPPHIRE DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE

Colored stone and yellow gold: a sharp contrast.

from €79

Rotary 69 VVS pendant necklace
ROTARY 69 VVS PENDANT NECKLACE

Rotary design: the movable bail makes perfect sense.

from €99

Emir Key V2 925 silver necklace
EMIR KEY V2 925 SILVER NECKLACE

Compact silver format, to be worn on a thin chain.

from €99

Broken heart pendant necklace
BROKEN HEART PENDANT NECKLACE

A graphic design with large solid surfaces.

from €99

To learn more

The complete overview of pieces worn by rappers can be found in the complete guide to American rapper jewelry.

Choose the design first, then the chain that carries it: our diamond pendants are available in several sizes.

Frequently asked questions

What chain thickness for a large pendant?

At least 8 mm for a 5 cm pendant. Below that, the chain looks crushed and does not support the weight well over time.

Fixed bail or movable bail?

Fixed for heavy pieces, movable for flat pendants that must remain facing the observer. The movable one adds a point of wear to monitor.

Which clasp for a chain worn every day?

A box clasp with double security. The simple lobster claw opens under the swinging of a heavy piece.

How to prevent a pendant from scratching the chain?

Store them separately as soon as the design has sharp edges, and avoid leaving them loose in a pocket or drawer.

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