Everything you need to know about diamond color

The different colors and names of diamonds

The second most important factor when buying a diamond, right after brilliance, is color. Although virtually impossible to determine with the naked eye, color is a significant factor in a diamond's value. The purer the color, the higher its price. So, how can you be sure you're buying a high-quality gemstone?

Discover the color scale of diamonds and how color can be enhanced through subtle jewelry design techniques.

DIAMOND COLOR SCALE

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has developed a color scale for diamonds to help the average person better understand the true value of their purchase. This scale assigns gemstones a grade from D to Z. Gemologists determine the grade by examining a loose diamond under controlled lighting and using a 10X loupe. The stone is then compared to a reference series with precise color values.

On this scale, D is considered perfectly colorless. D stones are pure, without any color, and their evaluation is the highest . Grade Z is assigned to diamonds that have a more pronounced yellow or brown tint.

KZ GRADED DIAMONDS - LIGHT COLOR

Stones graded K or lower have a noticeable warm color. They tend toward yellow or brown hues and are considered low quality. Most reputable jewelers do not use diamonds of this type.

DIAMONDS RATED G, H, I, J - NEARLY COLORLESS

Stones in these categories have a slightly warm yellow hue that is only visible when compared directly to a higher-quality diamond. They are considered medium to good quality diamonds.

DIAMONDS CLASSIFIED E, F - COLORLESS

Stones graded E and F by a gemologist are very white. These high-quality diamonds are rarer and are considered to be of excellent quality.

DIAMONDS GRADED D - ABSOLUTELY COLORLESS

Stones that receive a D grade are the rarest. They have the highest color grade and are therefore considered extremely valuable.

FANCY COLORED DIAMONDS

When it comes to diamonds, rarity is synonymous with value. For normal colored diamonds, value is based on the absence of color, as colorless diamonds are the rarest. For fancy colored diamonds, those outside the normal range, the rarest and most valuable colors are saturated pinks, blues, and greens. In any case, even very slight differences in color can have a significant impact on value.

Compared to fancy yellows and browns, diamonds with a noticeable hint of another hue are much rarer. Even in light tones and with low saturation, as long as they exhibit color in the face-up position, they are considered fancy colors. Red, green, and blue diamonds of medium to dark hue and moderate saturation are extremely rare.

Grading fancy color diamonds is complex and specialized, and it requires highly trained laboratory graders to carry out the process accurately.

The GIA system for grading fancy colored diamonds is designed to account for the fact that not all colored diamonds have the same depth of color. For example, yellow diamonds have a wide range of saturations, while blue diamonds do not.

• Yellow Diamond : Yellow diamonds are characterized by the presence of nitrogen atoms in clusters, which gives them a pronounced yellow hue. Yellow is the second most common diamond color. Yellow diamonds are sometimes marketed as "canary." Although not a proper grading term, it is commonly used in the trade to describe fancy yellow diamonds.

• Pink and Red Diamonds : A gap in the crystal structure and the presence of inclusions give rise to pink and red diamonds, which are very rare. Diamonds with a red or reddish color are extremely rare and highly prized. Pure pinks are more popular than purplish, orange, brownish, or grayish diamonds. Professionals refer to some very attractive stones in this category as "pink" and to some with purplish reflections as "mauve."

• Orange Diamond : Structural irregularities during the growth of rough diamond and the presence of nitrogen in isolated atoms are responsible for the orange color.

• Blue Diamond : Blue diamonds are formed by a mixture of boron and hydrogen atoms. Blue diamonds are extremely rare. They usually have a slight gray tint and are therefore rarely as saturated as blue sapphires. Their color is due to the presence of boron impurities: the more boron, the deeper the blue.

• Green Diamond : Green diamonds can form when the perfect carbon structure is altered by vacant areas caused by natural irradiation. Fancy green diamonds generally have a light tone and low saturation. Their color is often muted, with a grayish or brownish cast. The hue is usually in the yellowish-green category. In most green diamonds, the hue is limited to the surface and rarely extends throughout the stone. For this reason, cutters try to leave as much natural roughness as possible around the ring. Green diamonds get their color when radiation displaces carbon atoms from their normal positions in the crystal structure. This phenomenon can occur naturally when diamond deposits are found near radioactive rocks, or artificially as a result of irradiation treatment. Naturally colored green diamonds are extremely rare. Due to their rarity and the very real possibility of treatment, green diamonds are always viewed with suspicion and carefully examined in gemological laboratories. Despite this, advanced gemological tests cannot always determine the origin of the color of green diamonds.

• Brown Diamond : Brown diamonds owe their color to internal plastic deformation. Brown is the most common color of fancy diamond and also the oldest to be used in jewelry. The Romans of the 2nd century set brown diamonds in rings. In modern times, however, it took some time for brown diamonds to become popular. Brown diamonds were generally considered good only for industrial use until the 1980s, when abundant quantities began to appear in the production of the Argyle mines. Australians shaped them and set them in jewelry. They gave them names like "cognac" and "champagne." The marketing worked, and today brown diamonds are found in many mid-priced jewelry designs.

• Black Diamond : Black diamonds are actually white diamonds with many dark inclusions distributed throughout the stone, giving them their black color. Until the late 1990s, black diamonds were not in high demand. But designers began using them in jewelry, particularly in contrast with tiny colorless pavé diamonds, and they began to gain popularity.

• Purple and Gray Diamond : The presence of hydrogen is responsible for the gray shades in diamonds, and research continues to understand the cause of purple diamonds.

There are also fancy white diamonds. They have a milky white color. Sometimes, white diamonds are cut to display beautiful opalescent flashes of color.

Clarity of colored diamonds

In the case of fancy-colored diamonds, color is the dominant value factor. Even diamonds with numerous inclusions that result in a low clarity grade are valued by connoisseurs if they exhibit attractive color. Of course, inclusions that threaten the stone's durability can significantly reduce the value of a fancy-colored diamond. Fancy-colored diamonds may have a colored grain, which is considered an inclusion.

DIAMOND JEWELRY DESIGN

Several factors influence the intensity of your diamond's color; this is where jewelry design becomes very important to enhance the appearance of your stone. Purchasing fine diamonds is an investment, so you should be sure to understand how the stone's color affects the jewelry's value.

SIZE

A diamond's color becomes more apparent as the stone increases in carat weight. Therefore, it is best for larger diamonds to be relatively colorless. We recommend that diamonds over one carat have a color grade of H or higher.

ASSEMBLY

A diamond's color is more visible, even to the untrained eye, when it's set in a ring or other jewelry piece with a contrasting hue. Our jewelry experts recommend setting stones graded G or lower in a yellow gold setting. Pairing them with a metal of a similar hue neutralizes the diamonds' warm color.

For the best visual impact, stones graded E or higher are ideally set in white gold or platinum. Yellow gold is not recommended with these nearly colorless stones. The warm color can reflect off the diamond, making it appear less valuable.

SHAPE

Experienced jewelry designers know that the cut of the stone can enhance a diamond's appearance. If the stone has a warmer color, a round or princess cut can help make the hue less noticeable because the facets reflect more light. On the other hand, emerald or marquise shapes are ideal for highlighting colorless diamonds.

VALUE

When purchasing diamond jewelry, most buyers are looking for the sweet spot between price and quality. To get the best value, we recommend choosing diamonds in color categories J to G. These diamonds aren't so rare or difficult to find. These diamonds aren't so rare or perfect that they're extremely expensive, but they're still considered good quality stones. You and your friends won't be able to see the diamond's warm hues, and smart jewelry design will ensure the best visual result.

LEARN MORE ABOUT DIAMOND SELECTION

Ask the experts at Janvier Jewelers how to choose the best quality diamond for your budget. We are happy to guide our clients in choosing fine jewelry of all kinds.
Visit the Janvier Jewelers store in Newark, Delaware to view our wide selection of engagement rings and diamond jewelry, or call (302) 565-4861.